Day 54 - The start of the end

 

The Great Glen Way (GGW) ends at Inverness Castle, which is lucky, as that is where the John o' Groats Trail (JoG) starts. We had two or so miles to reach the castle from the campsite and it was a little disappointing to find out it was currently closed for renovation and basically unrecognisable beneath a facade of scaffolding. I couldn't even find the plaque that signifies the end and start of the two trails.

From there it was a far from pretty walk north through a couple of industrial estates as I headed for the massive Kessock Bridge that would take me across Beauly Firth on to Black Isle. That meant I had seen very little of the city, other than in the picture above: I recall from a visit a few years ago that it seemed to be a leading centre for supporters of the Flat Earth Society. I guess I am turning straight round if I reach JOG, so that could be where the world ends, for all I will know.

I also walked past two petanque courts (or pitches?) on my way into Inverness yesterday, one of which had about 10 players (or bowlers?) actively chucking (or tossing?). I then passed another petanque club when I crossed the bridge this morning. A quick search seems to suggest there is a thriving Celtic interest in petanque. You learn something useless every day.

My first two days on the JoG Trail have the simple aim of allowing walkers to reach Dornoch, which sits at the bottom of the north east coast and then allows the trail to hug the coast all the way to John o' Groats itself. Because of the three firths (Beauly, Cromarty and Dornoch), the route is convoluted as the only passage is across three big bridges, two of which I traversed today. Indeed, by coincidence, Suzanne was driving the van over Cromarty Bridge at the same time I was walking, allowing me a picture of her in action at the wheel.

For the most part, I was walking on road, 22 miles of it. I made something of a dodgy walking shoe decision and my feet are aching a bit tonight. Not aching as much, however, as my right butt-cheek. I have occasionally suffered from sciatica in the past and could have done without a flare up now. I have a few yoga stretches up my sleeve and a little ibuprofen in my rucksack but really need some gentle manipulation. Suzanne says she is driver, cook and bottle-washer, nothing else. I bet Phil would have helped.

It was probably the least entertaining walking to date. I met a young guy who was walking JOG in the opposite direction and gave the now-familiar warning about the trail further north. He said he started walking with his girlfriend but she went home after the second day. I didn't enquire whether that decision was a relationship-ender. I also passed an American couple who I had spotted on the GGW. It turns out they are walking the GGW and JoG paths to complete their own LEJOG journey. They started six years ago and travel over each year to walk a couple of the National Trails. They seem to be on the same schedule as me this week, so I may get to find out more.

For now, however, I'm off for a limp around the camp site in Evanton looking for any butt-cheek candidates.

Suze in action

Inverness

                                                The A9 Bridge over Cromarty Firth