Before we could start our journey north today, Suzanne had to transport me and Rachel 30 or so miles back to Dufton, where we finished Day 34. I have tried to book campsites near to where each stage ends but the Bank Holiday weekend (and a general lack of sites for motorhomes in the area) has meant we are spending three nights at a very pleasant and accommodating small site besides a pub, The Crown at Micklegate, near Middleton-in-Teesdale. Even then, we had to move to the pub car park today as the site was fully booked. Luckily, with Rachel's car being here, Suzanne can move us around in that rather than the van.
It was around 45 mins to drive to Dufton and it became apparent the weather conditions were very different today, a thick mist having descended overnight. Conditions were not ideal for a day going up Cross Fell, the highest point not only on the Pennine Way but of my entire End to End journey at 2930ft (893m). The guide book says 'this is a serious mountain walk' and advises that 'we take enough food and drink to last the whole day' as there are no resupply options or escape routes.
We started climbing as soon as we left Dufton (only at 600ft, so plenty to come). I was still feeling the efforts of yesterday's walk and was low on energy; an early stop for a Mars Bar helped and soon I was in Rachel's slipstream as the climb started in earnest. Rachel has been a good climber from childhood and I have to work hard to keep up. It did me good, however, and we ticked off the landmarks as we passed them - or, at least, as we thought we passed them.
With no breeze at all, the mist left visibility at no more than 50 yards, so it was even hard to follow what was often an indistinct path over peat and then rocky outcrops. The GPS provides great comfort and confidence in conditions like this - we're unlikey to walk off an edge (hopefully). We passed another couple on the way up who are doing the Pennine Way in stages and were heading for Alston, like us.
It took 4 hours to reach the Cross Fell summit and it was a great relief to have the shelter appearing out of the gloom. Apparently there are views of the Lake District on a clear day, but I could barely see Rachel on the other side of the shelter.
I suggested we leave lunch 15 mins or so until we arrived at Greg's Hut, a recently restored bothy. I think Rachel was expecting Greggs and the option of sausage rolls but the Hut provided seating, warmth and even a guitar if anyone fancied a song. I guess some walkers will choose to stay overnight - there was a promising looking firepit available, too. Another couple were there to recce the route for the Pennine 39 ultra marathon, our friends from earlier in the day came in, and another three walkers joined just as we were leaving, so it's clearly a popular venue.
It was a tortuous stone track down for around 10 miles (worryingly called the Corpse Road) before reaching Garrigill, and then a more pleasant grassy path to Alston for the last three, the mist having largely lifted. By that time, I was a spent force but - not for the first time - having someone with me proved invaluable in dragging me over the finish line.
The South Tyne Way runs alongside the Pennine Way tomorrow and I have decided to follow that all the way to Haltwhistle, where we will be camping. Rachel is still with me, so we will have to take her in the van back to our start point at Alston, where she will be driving us in the car to start the walk. The logistics of this LEJOG business are as exhausting as the walking.
As for wildlife today, there could well have been gorillas in the mist - but we couldn't see them.
Thought it was a flying saucer...it was the Cross Fell shelter
I guess this is where people offering to join you for certain stages is a massive boost. Keep going mate, you're doing a grand job, don't forget to load up on the calories, don't want you getting blown away if it gets windy north of the border!
ReplyDelete