Day 49 - Marching on Fort William

 

Last night's Kinlochleven car park proved to be a more than acceptable stopover, particularly with a convenient pub just across the road in which to wile away the evening. The West Highland Way also runs past the entrance, so Rachel and I were on the path straight away and climbing a steep, winding path through trees until we were back on General Wade's military road. We seemed to have hit something of a Highland heatwave and, if the General had had flags on his road, the sun would have been cracking them. 

I mentioned on Wednesday that the path was very busy around Loch Lomond and how I doubted many of the walkers would last the course. Indeed, numbers were fewer on Thursday and almost down to Pennine Way proportions yesterday. Saturday, and the good weather, seemed to have brought numbers out in droves and there was at least one group in sight for the whole day. I've grown accustomed to regular, uninterrupted comfort breaks over the last seven weeks and it was frustrating to spot a conveniently sited bush only to have the opportunity denied by someone appearing round the next bend.

The walk was similar to the last couple of days - good weather, with light, cloud-busting hills on either side and the odd loch to complete the picture. I have walked the last 54 miles of the WHW before - the bit from Loch Lomond to Fort William. However, that was part of the Caledonian Challenge, where you have 24 hours to complete the walk.with a support team to assist at each checkpoint. Not only was I then walking in the opposite direction, I was doing so at speed and with a few hours spent in darkness with just a headtorch guiding the way. The second time I did this, in 2007, I was walking with Tony Williams, one of the quickest walkers I know, and he dragged me round in about 18 hours. This was despite agreeing to Tony's suggestion the previous evening that we nip out 'for a couple of pints', which ultimately saw us arriving back at the dormitory like giggling schoolboys when everyone else was asleep. Not the best preparation for a 54 mile challenge.

So, I was really seeing this fantastic scenery for the first time and was delighted to share the day with Rachel. The hard rocky path was tough on the soles of my old boots, both of which are now splitting at the side. With wet weather forecast for tomorrow's stage up the Great Glen Way, I think I will have to revert to my newer boots that caused the problem on the top of my big toe. Other than that, Rachel has her wellies in the boot and her feet are on the large side - I could squeeze in there if necessary.

Ben Nevis was by our side for the last couple of miles and we called into the Visitor Centre for a drink and an ice cream. There were two or three groups who had just returned from the summit as part of the Three Peaks Challenge, all of them commenting just how cold and snowy it was up there, despite the heat down below. Rach and I decided to give it a miss and headed to an actual, proper campsite with things like showers and electricity. I fear this means I may be in for an evening of Eurovision.

So, we are straight on to the Great Glen Way in the morning, heading initially for the excellently named Loch Lochy. I am looking to extend my stages on the GGW as it has no real climbs, which will allow me to build an extra day on to the John O Groats Trail, as that appears noticably more hilly. It could mean 25 miles tomorrow, which I will break to Rachel at an opportune Eurovision moment.

 

Rachel Nasiri and Ben Nevis. Rachel is in the foreground, Ben at the back