Day 34: Changing of the Guard

 

Looking down into High Cup Nick

I have come to begrudge any step that doesn’t take me directly north and today was directly west. However, it did include some of the highlights of the Pennine Way and I had the pleasure of sharing these with daughter Rachel, so I’ll accept the diversion on this one occasion.

Rachel arrived late last night along with replacement carer (and wife), Suzanne. This allowed Phil his escape; when Phil volunteered to ‘help out’, I am not sure he had in mind being my personal butler, but that is the way the role seems to have developed. Basically, I manage to dress myself, work out my route, go for a walk - and Phil does just about everything else. I can’t thank (or recommend) him enough.

Unfortunately for Suzanne, she is now stuck with me and the motorhome for the next four weeks. I know how she hates driving the van and I simply wouldn’t be able to walk without the support she (and Phil) provide. I have no doubt it will cost me.

Back to today’s walk, and the first few miles are alongside the River Tees, taking in the picturesque Low and High Force waterfalls. Disaster occurred at High Force, when my walking pole (Sticky) was left behind. Being easy walking alongside the river and having no wild animals to fight off, it was a couple of miles before I realised. I couldn’t face turning back.

Fortunately, the one walker we saw all day soon passed by with her friendly dog and it transpired she would be passing by from whence we came. Sticky was retrieved, handed in to the Visitor Centre and collected by Suzanne later in the day.

To reach Cauldron Snout waterfall, there is a good half mile of boulder scrambling followed by a climb up the side of the Snout itself. I can only presume Health and Safety have never visited this neck of the woods; the path simply disappears and you are left to just scramble around on your hands and knees. I recall during my working days having to watch a video every three months showing me how to lift a box (bend at the knee, don’t swivel, etc). Whoever is in charge of Health and Safety at National Trails did a different course to the RBS guys.

After Cauldron Snout was conquered (an excellent place to eat lunch, providing you survive the climb), it was on to High Cup Nick. The Nick overlooks a glaciated valley and the scale genuinely takes your breath away - pictures alone can’t do it justice. Our path down to Dufton was about three miles but it would be a relatively straightforward climb up for anyone who wanted to see it for real - it’s more than worth it.

Energy levels were low today, indeed they have been for the last two or three stages. No injuries and my legs are in reasonable condition but I guess the five weeks of walking 20 miles a day are starting to catch up with me. Tomorrow, Rach and I are up Cross Fell, the highest point of my entire LEJOG adventure, so there is never any rest. At least we’re heading north all day.

More pictures than usual today to try and capture just how impressive these natural phenomena are.

I’m off to find my crampons.

High force waterfall

Low force waterfall

On the 'path' to Cauldron Snout

High Cup Nick