Day 51 - Super Caley looks fantastic, down there's Fort Augustus

 

It was a quick climb up on a forest track out of Invergarry this morning and an even quicker climb down to Aberchalder, where Loch Oich meets the next stage of the Caledonian canal. I was then on the towpath for the next six miles. I was going to say there wasn't too much to report on, other than the sun was shining, the path was firm and flat and that an occasional leisure skipper would doff his cap in a friendly manner. However, I remember when I first watched cricket on an HD television. For the first over, you think it's the greatest thing you've ever seen, as if you are actually there fielding at short leg, ready to duck whenever the ball drops just shy of a length. But, by the end of the second over, your eyes have grown accustomed to it and it's just the same as any other match you've watched on the box.

So it was with the magnificent hills around me, one rolling in after the other, some covered with the largest pine trees I've ever seen, others with sheep no bigger than dots high across the valley. My legs and feet were both feeling good - to say there is nothing to report goes nowhere near doing the day justice.

One thing most definitely noticeable is the number of tourists from overseas that are attracted to this area. From the moment I hit Scotland, I have heard every accent imaginable; in fact, the English accent is the one that's largely missing. American/Canadian, German/Dutch, French/Spanish (I'm not very good at deciphering accents) - I've heard them all. Many have been walking the paths I've been on and must be responsible for a big slice of the Scottish economy.

Of course, it's not just the scenery, or even the whisky, that entices them; today I reached Fort Augustus, where the 'Caley' canal meets Loch Ness, and the impact of the Monster legend was immediately apparent. The car park had six or seven coaches in, there were boat trips available 'if you are brave enough' and the coffee shops were full. I was chatting to an American from one of the coach tours who was admiring my accent and he called his wife and friends over - 'listen to this guy, he sounds just like John Lennon.' Unsure of what to say to my expectant audience, I exaggerated my accent to 'calm down' levels and said ' we all live in a yellow submareeen.' I thought they were going to pass out with excitement. I never even gave them my card.

By volume, Loch Ness is the largest loch/lake in the UK and second only to Loch Lomond in terms of surface area. It is 22 miles long and between one and two miles wide at various points. Mention of a monster dates back to 565 but it was 1933 when a couple reported seeing 'something strange' and a local paper saw an opportunity. The rest, as they say, is history (and complete bunkum) but the myth will be perpetuated for as long as those tourists spend their money.

I took the high route out of Fort Augustus to Invermoriston, allowing me to look back down at the town in the photo at the top. It was a beautiful section of the walk and also allowed me to come up with the title for the day. I deny any accusations of plagiarism.

There is nowhere to camp near Invermoriston, so Suzanne picked me up and drove us back to Augustus, which was renamed in 1715 as a result of our old friend General Wade sending one of his military roads here and building a fort. The road now forms the A82. I'm growing to like the General.

A short day tomorrow, around 14 miles to Drumnadrochit, another Nessie tourist mecca. I shall be keeping my eyes peeled.