Day 36 - Journey to the centre of GB (disputedly)

 

I've struggled with the last three days of walking, the climbing and above average mileage taking their toll on my energy levels, if not necessarily my legs and feet. If anything, it is my neck and shoulders that were providing greater physical evidence of my toils - I've adjusted every single strap on my bag to every single position but am yet to find one I could describe as comfortable.

When we finished yesterday's stage, I was feeling particularly under-powered and, as I mentioned, it was Rachel who had really managed to jolly me along. Then, when reviewing the route for today in the Pennine Way guidebook, I noticed the author recommended the South Tyne Way as a more straightforward alternative, it being along an old railway track. Not only that, it bent round to Haltwhistle, rather than my originally-scheduled stop at Greenhead, and a couple of miles further on the road would allow me to walk directly to the camp site.

This meant Rachel and I walked 16 miles today, instead of the 20 originally planned, and I will be able to walk straight onto Hadrian's Wall tomorrow morning from the site, saving me another four or so miles. This may only seem a small win in the great scheme of things but it came as a massive boost just when I needed it. I was bouncing along like a spring chicken today: I even lent Sticky to Rachel. The tricks the mind can play on your body.

Despite the rain, the walk was pleasant enough. At the start, we walked along the narrow gauge railway that stretches for five miles from Alston to the village of Slaggyford, where I am sure house prices would benefit from a name change. There were steam trains running today but we had moved on before the first was due. The route then continues down the disused rail route and over Lambley Viaduct as it spans the South Tyne. Built in 1852, the last train went over in 1976 but is still an impressive sight.

The heavens really opened as we went through Haltwhistle, a town that claims to be the centre of the Great Britain. Strangely, its rival for this position is Dunsop Bridge, 71 miles to the south in Lancashire. I can only presume towns in between can't be bothered staking a claim in case they are inundated with the ensuing tourists. We were back in the van at Hadrian's Wall Campsite for 3pm - excellent showers with piped music and a great drying room that has proved particularly useful after my latest soaking.

There was a bit more wildlife visible today, including three deer bounding across our path, a yellow lamb and numerous slugs, attracted by the wet weather no doubt, but which Rachel found strangely fascinating, I worry about her sometimes. The lamb is apparently the result of meconium staining after a prolonged labour. (Clearly, I looked that up and am unable to answer further questions).

Rachel has now taken her leave and I'll be walking on my own for the next few days. It's always great fun walking with Rach: most of the conversation is complete nonsense but the miles fly by that bit quicker. I mean, how do I know if I could eat a vulture?

I'm on Hadrian's Wall for the first six or so miles tomorrow and then follow the Pennine Way again towards Bellingham. The rain is currently hammering down on the van roof, so it was probably a waste of time using that drying room after all.

Unusual lamb

Some cool dude...